Settling In

Well, I have made it to Voronezh in one piece. After a couple of hours of confusion and arguing about my ticket payment I finally made it onto the right train. I had all eyes staring at me as I lugged my 50-plus pound suitcase through the platskarta car (one of the lower economy classes on the train which has 6 "bunks" in each car, and everyone is able to walk through them, making the car technically safer though considerably less private).  Eight hours later, we arrived in Voronezh, and my bunkmate helped me maneuver my suitcase off the train and then gave me his contact information if I ever needed anything. Until this point, I had felt confident in everything but as I exited the train I realized how much unknown lay ahead. Fortunately, one of the younger teachers was waiting to meet me. She brought me to the dorm in which I will be living and made me wait while she and the elderly woman "RA" attempted to reach various strong men in various dorm rooms in order to find someone to carry up my suitcase (I swear it was not that heavy! I forgot that in Russia it is such a no-no for a woman to lift more than a grain of rice). Then she kindly brought me to her friend's house for a much appreciated homecooked meal of borscht and plov. The next morning, the young teacher, Ira, and I went to the main mall in the city and bought a number of things for my new room. The English department bought me a microwave and an electric kettle yesterday (I didn't think I should tell them that my history with microwaves is fraught with mishaps). It has already snowed twice in Voronezh, but today is a little warmer and feels a little bit like an autumn day. They haven't turned the heat on yet, so Ira brought me some tape to put on the windows. 

 I have a room with two small beds, a dresser, an ancient fridge, and a small bathroom. Here are a few photos. 

This broom was also left by the last person for me. 

Not sure how much use I will get out of it, but I am keeping an open mind.

I'm very thankful to have somewhere cheap to live that is also safe (everyone must present ID and the dorm closes at 11pm sharp). It is also in the center of the city right next door to the largest cathedral in the city - a beautiful church. I have a feeling I will get along well with all the women who take turns sitting at the desk (I have been sent back upstairs a few times to dress more warmly and have received multiple lectures on safety). At first, I didn't think I had hot water but then was informed that the hot water is only available from 10am-6pm. Oh, and also, the cold nob means hot on my shower and vice versa. Because, why make sense? Every time that I have showered a giant pool of water forms in my bathroom, so yesterday I spent a few hours putting together a makeshift shower curtain/curtain rod. I feel very accomplished; It has only fallen down once. Not only am I learning how to live in Russia- I am learning how to really live on my own for the first time.

 There is one washing machine in the dorm next to me, but I am apparently not allowed to use it because I don't live there. The people in my dorm all handwash their clothing in the basement. I guess I can either suck it up and buy a tub to wash in or...just keep buying underwear.

Somebody, not sure who, called a carpenter for me. My closet doesn't have shelves or a pole and is kept closed by bent nails, so I am hopeful that he will fix it all for me. The carpenter's eyes grew wide when he learned I was an American. He immediately asked the two questions I have been peppered with the most: "You have husband? You like Obama?". That experience and other similar ones this week reminded me that being an American in Voronezh is not nearly as common as being one in St. Petersburg or Moscow. I have already been the first American that many of these people have met. Their wonder and curiosity about where I am from and their eagerness to tell me either that it is their dream (they often use that word specifically) to see New York or California or how adamantly they despise America is something I will never get used to. The questions I receive vary immensely, but each time the experience reminds me how fortunate I am to be able to see other parts of the world up close. 

I met my main contact who explained that I will be teaching 16 hours a week at two "faculties" or departments. Each class consists of about 15 students and meets for two hours. Unfortunately, I only see each class every other week, so learning all of their names will be a challenge (Ira told me they are all named Sasha anyways). 

Yesterday, I went to church at the large cathedral next door and then explored the city a little bit. I haven't seen too much, but I like Voronezh a lot so far. There is a beautiful river in the middle of it, and I am quite close to everything that is in the center of the city. The mall I went to on Saturday is a giant-6 stories structure with a movie theater, restaurants, grocery store, high end stores like Boss and Zara, and about a million shoe stores (of course I had to buy Russian boots right away). The country girl in me was overwhelmed from the hustle and bustle of the city and was happy to find this park.

I'm looking forward to exploring the city more when I have a better idea of where things are...and when I finally learn my own address and how to get home. The Offspring and Limp Bizkit are coming to Voronezh next month. Almost everyone I talk to has already asked if I am going to see them. 

I was also recently reminded of the trials and tribulations of anyone trying to get through Russian bureaucracy. I went to register (one has to register in a city within 7 days or face large fines and the possibility of not being allowed to return to Russia). Ira went with me and basically spoke on my behalf for a good portion of the time.I spent most of the time confused and thanking my lucky stars that I had her with me. Then we went back and forth between five different offices to try to find out what I need to live in the student dorm. Apparently, I need to get a medical exam in order to live in the dorm. I assumed this meant a physical and possibly an HIV test. ACTUALLY, it means that I have to see 8 doctors including a surgeon, infectious disease specialist, and a therapist (there is talk about a 9th doctor, but I didn't catch what type of specialist they were arguing about). I also need another blood test, urine test, and xrays of my lungs (since TB is such a problem). Everyone we have spoken with, which is probably about 14-15 people, has told me different things about the ORDER in which I need to do these things (apparently this matters a lot?). I'm hoping to get out of as much of this as possible so I can begin focusing on teaching. On that note, I'm off to teach my first class!